Amelia Earhart, one of the world’s most famous women pilots, also tried her hand at fashion inside and outside of the cockpit. She was one of the first celebrities to create her own fashion line in an attempt to fund her flying career.  “While the clothing didn’t veer too far from the trends of the ‘30s, their innovative designs spoke to Earhart’s aesthetic. Unconventional materials such as parachute silk and textile from airplane wings were used in some designs, and she gave a nod to her love of aviation with buttons shaped like propellers” (Morgan). Amelia’s line was described as groundbreaking, eccentric and practical and included on each tag was her logo, her signature in black writing on top of a red plane. She even designed a two piece aviation suit for the Ninety-Nines, an organization of women pilots. Even though her line was not ultimately successful, one can only imagine what this trailblazer could have done had her life not been cut short.

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       Over the years as commercial air travel evolved and more and more passengers were taking to the air, Pan American World Airways (“Pan Am”) felt the need to make their nervous passengers feel more comfortable. One idea was to redesign their uniforms and so in the 1930’s Pan Am, “decided to abolish the militaristic uniform and convert to Navy-style apparel. This uniform consisted of a navy blue, double-breasted jacket with rank insignia on the sleeve cuffs and a hat” (FlyAeroguard). The idea behind the change was to have their pilots project, “competence, confidence, professionalism, calm and leadership” (PanAmMuseum). The other elements that accompanied this new look were navy blue slacks, a white button down shirt with epaulets on both shoulders, and a tie. The epaulets or stripes are a type of ornamental badge worn on both the jacket cuffs and shirt that represent the rank and experience of the crew member. “It should not be forgotten that basic rules were borrowed from the naval rules,” (BAATraining) and so, you will see that the captain wears four stripes, the first officer three, and the flight engineer only two. Once the other commercial airlines saw how the new uniform helped bring success to Pan Am, they quickly followed suit. By making slight variations to their own style and colors, these other airlines were able to set themselves apart. Pan Am had established the new pilot look and to this day, it has remained unchanged.

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       While designers present new uniform ideas every year, these focus mainly on the cabin crew and not the flight crew. “Cabin crew are the front line ambassadors for every airline and their uniforms need to be super stylish and instantly recognizable. As well as looking good, cabin crew must also feel good, thus, their uniforms need to be comfortable and practical as they spend so much time in them” (BAATraining). A majority of the commercial airlines have rolled out new uniform looks in the last few years which I have detailed below.

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       In 2016, American Airlines made changes for the first time in 30 years. After merging with US Airways in 2013, American felt it was time to be seen as one brand, integrate all their employees and, “hopes the fresh new look is a hit with both workers and customers, it’s also an important sign of progress. And, of course, smart new uniforms can go a long way in boosting morale among employees” (Mutzabaugh).

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       American Airlines worked hand in hand with their employees on the designs that included adding slate gray, cobalt and crisp white as new colors. While they continued their relationship with Twin Hill on the manufacturing of the uniforms, they partnered with Cole Haan on a new accessory line including custom designed handbags.

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       Qantas also made significant progress in 2016 when they not only updated flight attendant uniforms but collaborated with their female pilots and introduced a female version of the pilot uniform designed by Australian designer Martin Grant. Qantas decided, “to stop dressing its female pilots in male workwear. The airline had an epiphany this year when it realized that not giving Ms. Jet Pilot, who can do mental arithmetic faster than a mathematician and who flies quicker than a race car driver, her own uniform was out of step with its company-wide gender equality policy” (Stiles). The look, which addressed shape and femininity, was well received and included, “a wider necktie, a modified cap, and the jackets have internal welt or jetted pockets, rather than the external flap pockets of the male jackets (and of course the buttons are on the left)” (Stiles).

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       Southwest Airlines made their mark in 2017 when they redesigned their uniforms for the first time in twenty years. “To ensure that the new uniforms not only reflected the airline’s brand but were also functional and comfortable for employees, the airline created an Employee Design Team that worked with corporate apparel maker Cintas to create the designs” (Avakian). They stayed consistent with the brand colors and added many pieces to the collection that employees could mix and match including polo shirts and shorts. Unfortunately the only change in the pilot uniform was very subtle, a move from navy blue to black.

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       2018 saw Delta Airlines take their turn; along with designer Zac Posen, they introduced passport plum, the first new color addition to their uniforms in thirty years. “But a year and a half later, the uniforms, which are manufactured by Lands’ End, are being discarded after thousands of Delta employees have reported serious allergic reactions to the materials used to make the clothes” (Shallcross). As a result, Delta is back at it and taking more control over the production of the uniforms to ensure the material is properly tested before rolling out the new uniforms in late 2021.

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       After corroborating with employees, fashion designer Tracy Reese presented changes to the United Airlines uniforms in 2019 in the form of new colors pacific blue, premium purple and atlantic amethyst, all of which matched some of the interior cabin colors. Reese was quoted as saying, “United should stand toe-to-toe with any global airline in terms of how good their employees look and the quality of their uniforms” (Mutzbaugh).

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       Based on all the recent uniform redesigns and bold new colors, the airlines have  certainly dressed their employees in updated, modern new looks that are not only consistent with their overall brand image but also taking comfort into consideration. In glancing through photos of the employee’s new attire, with the exception of Qantas, the overall look of the flight crew has once again remained the same among all the other airlines, and for good reason. As the old saying goes, if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it. That iconic suit and tie look continues to inspire confidence in passengers and we all know that people do judge books by their cover. I know I am much more comfortable boarding a plane and seeing the pilot professionally dressed in their sharp, crisp attire. If they came on board in flip flops and sweats, I would definitely question their ability.

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       I do applaud the fact that Qantas was the only airline to step out of the box and allow Martin Grant to address the uniform of the female pilot. The minor changes to the jacket’s cut and style certainly was a step in the right direction by bringing in a level of femininity. This look was positively received by the female pilots and I do feel there are other elements that can also be addressed to help change the career perception while keeping to the impressiveness of the title and not look inferior to the male pilot in any way. Before I put my two cents in on what I would change, I felt it was necessary to do a bit more research on the topic to get a better understanding of the uniform from a female’s point of view.

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       Since there are not many female pilots currently in control in the skies, it has been a bit difficult to find relevant information on why women continue to wear an unflattering masculine uniform. For the most part it seems that the female pilots just accept that the uniform is what it is. Some do feel a bit awkward wearing men’s clothing but, on the flip side, they do agree that the uniform alone commands authority. Malin Rydqvist, another young, Europe-based pilot who was interviewed by Elle Magazine, “loves the classic pilot’s uniform’s crisp look, I like to dress like a woman; I love to wear high heels. When I’m at work I have to wear the tie, so I like the contrast” (Clinton).

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       I also tried my hand at reaching out directly to women in the industry to hear their opinions first hand. Sharon Clark is a 30+ year Customer Service/Training Manager with American Airlines on the ground at Bob Hope Airport in Burbank, CA. Sharon would have loved to become a pilot herself, her ex-husband was one and he tried to convince her to go through ground school with him but, the thought of being required to do a solo flight was terrifying for her. The number of female pilots she has seen over the years was pretty coherent with my research, “When I started my career, female pilots were like a novelty, nowadays there are a few more and one time I was thrilled to see an all female flight crew!” (Clark). We spoke a lot about the uniform as well. More recently she has seen more changes, but mainly the cabin crew. She does agree that the pilot uniform has remained the same over the years because the pilot needs to project business and professionalism and that the uniform meets the need.  What is also interesting is that she mentioned, “I have a friend who I’ve been working with for a while who became a pilot actually based on the uniform” (Clark).

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       In a great conversation with Lauren Shelfo, a student my age who recently received her private pilot license and aspires to be a commercial pilot, shed her opinion on my paper. She is excited to be going through the process, throughout her training she never felt discriminated against as some of her older female mentors were subjected to. In fact she stated it was the opposite, “I have only ever encountered love and support by fellow instructors, DPE’s and flight students” (Shelfo). That alone is encouraging, to be welcomed to train as a female pilot shows that we are moving in the right direction. As for the uniform, Lauren is not looking forward to wearing it. “To be frank, they are tailored for men and I don’t feel beautiful or cute wearing those uniforms. I want to feel proud and confident wearing my uniform. But there is something to be said about honoring tradition, and I understand how people would want to maintain the traditional pilot uniform” (Shelfo).

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       Lisa Johnson, has been a flight attendant for almost forty years with United Airlines based in New Jersey and now, North Carolina. Early on in her career she could count on one hand how many female pilots she worked with. Through the years she encountered a few but the growth has been slow. One of her good friends who started as a flight attendant decided to become a pilot and, “the road was not an easy one for her, as it has always been perceived as a man’s job but she persevered and ended up being the first female pilot to to fly a 747 across the Atlantic” (Johnson). Lisa also mentioned that she has never seen a female pilot dress any different than a male. “The uniform has been the one constant throughout the years because it works, though it would be nice to see a slight touch of femininity brought into it” (Johnson).

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       One thing is clear, there is a consistent school of thought on what the pilot uniform portrays and it was that great design change in the 1930s by PanAm that brought the desired respect to the career. Female pilots have accepted that and enjoy the status that wearing the uniform brings. Overall, I believe there is still room for some improvements in the form of minor tweaks that could help bring the career to the forefront for women. Keeping the look still recognizable but adding slight feminine additions may just be what is needed to encourage more women to consider the career. Having a confident female pilot wearing more appropriate clothing at educational outreach programs and photographed on social media may just do the trick.

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       I do not claim to be a fashion designer but there are a few ideas that come to mind when I look at the uniform. The epaulets are an important component to the uniform, with rank being based on the stripes. A minor tweak could make them more elegant. Thinner stripes on the jacket adhered on more of an angle is one possibility along with a double layer for each stripe with something other than a straight edge. A very minor scallop could be an alternative. When it comes to the slacks, offering different lengths and cuts could make them a bit more flattering. The tie is another important accessory that could move to more of a female flair. Perhaps a different type of fabric, a wider width, a shorter length or even a softer knot. I also noticed that the belt is rather generic. A thinner belt with a more feminine buckle could stand out a bit more. Then there is the hat, if one does not notice the stripes on the jacket, the pilot hat is a dead giveaway so it should remain in play. The flat top stays to keep the naval origin but reworking the bill or the band to match the stripes as noted above is an alternative. Lastly, the younger generation is very brand loyal. Why not capitalize on that by collaborating with more contemporary brands that females can identify with that use more comfortable, lighter fabric for ease of movement such as Lululemon or Fabletics?

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       We can only hope that someday soon by continuing to garner interest and enthusiasm, the tables will turn and the number of female pilots will grow. The thought of more passengers hearing female voices coming from the cockpit will be a huge accomplishment because, “today, to have a chance to randomly meet a female pilot in the United States, you would have to meet 5,623 women. Wow, so much for progress!” (Goyer). Even with the support of all the aviation companies and groups, the trend can only change if interest in becoming a female pilot is piqued. With the amount of social media outlets available that can be used to reach the younger generation, why not make a play on the uniform? Maybe some minor design changes can assist in addressing the inequality in the air in order to break the gender mold and promote pilot careers for women around the world. After all, Pan Am turned the industry upside down in the1930’s and all the major airlines followed suit. It is time the cage is rattled again.

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